Report: First Holiday Giving 2010

Small, but off to a hopeful start. $1,135 was raised in six days for 4 projects. 100% of which goes directly to the requested projects.

Saving the Leopard.

This beautiful solitary cat's very survival is at stake. It is our privilege to connect people like you with wildlife conservation projects that make a difference.

Two of these projects help Will and his team capture the movements and behaviors of four free roaming leopards. The data they collect is crucial to determine the endangered species status of the African leopard.

One of the projects helps fund the tracking collars that pin points where Grace, Bo, Lucky and Nhovti hunt, sleep and roam. The other helps buy camera "traps", batteries and supplies to capture photographs of the free roaming leopards in specific locations in the study area.

Raising Up Wildlife Advocates.

The wildlife's future lies in the hands of the rising generation. Ian and Michele believe so totally in this that they invested their retirement into developing a bush school that changes lives. Enough funds were raised to send .... more kids to a week long camp. With your help we'd like to sponsor ... more as soon as possible.

Kids Learn to Save Raptors


As a reward the students in the Enviro Club from an impoverished school visit Africa's largest bird of prey sanctuary. Noone experiences Shannon's flight demonstration without gaining a huge respect for the raptors and a love for this petite woman of passion. Even more importantly myths about owls and vultures are broken to prevent their senseless killing.
>>>Stay tuned: A pilot project is in the works to instruct the entire high school to their vital role in wildlife conservation.

Thank you for your support and we look forward to growing the Nikela community in 2011. With a little from a lot we can make a difference for the leopards, children and all the South African wildlife

Thank You to All Humans who...

Rose just grabbed on and made it happen!

The last couple of days I've read many a heart breaking story about poaching, gas chambers and other animal abuses.  However, in the midst of all this there are people standing up, signing petitions, challenging politicians, even go to to toe with poachers... and I felt grateful.

This brief video is a small attempt to be the voice of those you work hard to protect.  Enjoy!  Oh yes, and do share it with others who work as hard as you at saving the animals... the wild and the domestic.

For the love of wildlife and wild animals.

Give a Gift and Save a Leopard

If you're like me, you enjoy giving a gift that lasts longer than till the batteries wear out!

This year you'll be remembered for giving a most unusual gift...

...access to track one of the few remaining free roaming leopards of Africa.

Today virtual games and animated movies throw us into a surreal world, not this.  You and your friend can see the daily movements of Grace, Bo or Lucky, as they hunt and where they sleep.  Not only that you'll get photo updates and stories from the researches.

Yes, I haven't told you, this leopard tracking is all part of a landmark wildlife conservation study to determine the true status of the African leopard.  Some think they're on the brink of the endangered species list and need special protection.  This research will help us know for sure.  How tragic it would be if we allowed the existence of this beautiful animal to slip thru our fingers!

If you're the least bit intriqued read more about the project and how for as little as $25 (or less if you must) you can participate and help.

"It's a Website!"

Years ago, arriving home with my brand new baby, I was greeted by a big sign in our front yard, it read:

"It's a Boy!"

I walked into our little basement apartment in a daze. Everything looked the same, but after nine months of pregnancy, hours of labor I now stepped into a new world called parenthood.

It's a Website! After months of "pregnancy" and weeks upon weeks of "labor" today I again stepped in to a new world as the Nikela website entered cyberspace and began it's mission ~ to grow a global community of people who care to help experts in South Africa protect the wildlife and prepare the rising generation to take their turn.

Come celebrate with us! Browse thru the website and get to know the amazing people we've come to call friends and the vital work they are engaged in. As you do so please let us know what you think. Nikela has already grown into a community based project and thus is becoming the product of many minds and hearts.

In the future please bookmark the New Nikela Blog
www.Nikela.org/Blog

A Sensless Hunt - A Hippo?

This just in from my friend Toni:

"It is with great sadness we must report that the Hippo that BWC hoped to purchase from a farmer, and relocate him to a place of safety, has already been shot and killed.


An advert was sent out offering a Hippo shoot, as it seems he was 'a problem animal'. We know there is no such thing as a problem animal, only intolerant, impatient, overbearing and greedy humans who will kill anyone in their way deemed to have 'no value'. De Hoek advertised the 'hunt' although they did not have anything to do with the final actions.

Email: dehoeksafari@mtnloaded.co.za
Tel.: 083 549 9096 / 082 627 5011.
Contact Hansie Minnaar / Rina.

To hunt a hippo is probably as challenging as beating a fly to death with a rolled up piece of newspaper. A bull is chosen and one simply walks up to the bank of the river or pond, takes aim, waits for the hippo to present a good head shot and bang, ‘hunt’ over.

Immediately the situation came to light, telephone calls were made and e-mails sent to rescue the Hippo, but we have been notified that the hippo died yesterday."

If this makes your heart boil as it does mine please let your voice be heard by:

• Telling the "hunt" organizers (email address noted above)
• Sharing this post on Face Book and Twitter (share buttons below)

Thank you.  The surviving wildlife thanks you.

Time to Scream? Maybe not...

AAAAAArrrrrrrrrgggggggggg! There! Now I feel better.

Talk about frustrations!  If it's not my software crashing it's internet access slowing.  If it's not hold ups with the website it's merchant services glitches.  And all I want to do is help people like Michele and Ian, Will and his dedicated team, Shannon and Ben, Karin, and... so they can do their small part in saving and protecting the wildlife we all love.

In the meantime I hear that more rhinos have been lost to horn slashing poachers.  That the the king of beasts, the lion is on a fast track toward extinction.  Ironic, just as the new Narnia movie with posters of Aslan are seen everywhere, while most of us are oblivious to the real lion's plight.

Okay... I got a grip!

"Start Where You Are... Use What You Have... Do What You Can."

This advice from Pat Williams and Jay Strack in their book "Shamgar" has saved my life many a time.  Life is good.

Start where you are:  Have great wildlife experts with amazing projects to support.  Have people like you sending us good vibes (and money.)  Got the website almost finished.  Got Noah from DonationPay getting our donation system in place.  Have Russ working feverishly along side of me.  Have Michael shooting our Twitter following way past 2,500.  Have Sand creating the best videos. Got my cat Weasel at my feet. 

There... I'm off to 'use what I have' to 'do what I can' and write up some more PROJECTS to include on the website.

Happy Thanksgiving... No Matter Where in the World You Are

In the mid '70s when I moved to the USA I was introduced to Thanksgiving.  Although it took me years to like yams smoothered with melted marshmellows I quickly embraced taking time out to give thanks.

Now as I pause I'm so grateful for:

• A God in Heaven (helps me make sense of things when nothing makes sense at all.)
• The beauties of creation (look at that bird and the giraffe she's de-bugging!)
• Fresh air to breathe (spent time in Manilla, Philippines where I nearly died.)
• A loyal companion (been together over 35 years... and counting.)
• Three amazing kids (that's really six now... those they love have become "mine" too.)
• Five ever-changing and growing grandkids (love being Lola... enjoy 'em, then give 'em back.)
• The dedicated wildlife conservationists (many I'm privileged to call friends.)
• The many who in small and big ways are helping Nikela emerge (I'll forget someone if I start naming.)

The list goes on... and my heart keeps expanding with gratitude.
God bless and thank you for your part in making this world a better place for all.

NikelaWildlife Videos are Happening

Thousands of photos!  Hundreds of videos!  Sifting thru music clips, sorting, shifting and editing and voila Sand has created a NikelaWildlife video.

Here is a sampling of many more to come:

"Keep 'em Barking?" Who's barking?

Like it? Share it.

The Starfish and the Iphone

The sun starting it's daily journey as the boy and his grandfather head for the beach.  Instead of finding the usual fragments of sea worn shells, hundreds of starfish lie beached on the cool sand.

As they move down the beach Grandfather randomly picks up a starfish, looks at it gently and with a flick of his arm tosses it out into the waves.  He stoops down to pick up another and the boy asks, "Grandfather, what are you doing?  Throwing one or two back isn't going to do anything."

Now in the traditional telling of this story the Grandfather respondes, "Ah, but to those it makes all the difference in the world!"

Today the story has a totally new ending...
Grandfather stops to look at the boy and says, "You're right my Boy."  Then he reaches into his pocket, pulls out his Iphone and startes texting.  Within a matter of minutes he has 37 friends reply and 15 show up on the beach ready to toss starfish.  By midday the beach is empty.

This is NIKELA's role.  Watch for the announcement of our website launch... real soon.

When the website goes live the URL for this blog
will change to http://www.nikelawildlife.org/

Not Quite as Exciting... or is it?

Who am I?

Write, edit, format, redo, crop, cut, rewrite... that's what our team is doing this week.  Not as exciting as visiting with great people like Tony from Birds of Eden, or Karin from the Darwin Project, but...

My respect for writers and web designers, not to mention video producers, has grown ten fold as we get the official Nikela website ready to go live.  In a few days the URL http://www.nikela.org/ will no longer point to this BLOG, but rather to our website that will house the blog and oh so much more, including photos from our South African wildlife conservation tour and how you can support folks like Michele and Ian who run the amazing bush school tucked way out there in northern South Africa.  Not to forget Shannon and her flying raptors and getting more kids to enjoy that great experience of the soaring birds.

Did you guess who the eyes of the first photo belong to?  Now the one at the end is a little harder.  They belong to a predator that is highly at risk to disappearing from the wild altogether.

Back to sorting through my photos to include in our photo gallery...

Who am I?

First Sponsored Project a Big Success!



Students and Teachers from the Meholokazulu High School, Imbali, KZN, South Africa.
Photo courtesy of www.frankvanegmond.nl

 Its early afternoon on Saturday October 30th and Russ and I are on the road once again, this time headed for Salt Lake City via Cheyenne. Shannon’s flight demonstration in Pietermaritzburg has to be over. How did it all go? Russ’s phone bleeps. A text message from Thoko (Meholokazulu High School science teacher):

“…we are just back from the trip it was so so awesome kids learnt a lot and got more interested (in wildlife). The principal asked for a proposal to participate in pilot…”

Dispelling myths about owls at the Raptor flight demonstration
Photo courtesy of www.frankvanegmond.nl

Whoo! Hoo! As my son would say… we are so thrilled.  Not only did the students from the Environmental Club have the experience we hoped for, the principal is on board to conduct our wildlife conservation education pilot project in his school!  Wonderful news!

"Owls are bad luck."  "If you see an owl someone you love will die." 

Getting up close and personal with owls helps dispel these myths that get these beautiful birds killed and increasingly at risk for becoming endangered. 



Shannon dispels myths about sniffing vulture brains
Photo courtesy of www.frankvanegmond.nl



"No, sniffing the dried brains of a vulture doesn't help you win the lotto!"  The false understanding that vulture brains can make humans clairvoyant costs thousands of vultures their lives every year.  These students now know better.

This trip to visit the Raptor Sanctuary and experience Shannon’s interactive flight show is NIKELA’S very first sponsored project. Frank van Egmond (my photographer friend from the Netherlands) took the photos. He kindly donated his time and expertise to capture the moment.

Thanks to all of you who made it happen. If you didn’t get a chance to contribute your donation is welcome to assist with funding the pilot wildlife conservation education project at the Meholokazulu High School. More about this forth coming.

PS: Watch for comments from the students who were there in future postings.


Photo courtesy of http://www.frankvanegmond.nl/



Send Checks or Money Orders to:

NIKELA

100 Commons Rd Ste 7-417

Dripping Springs, TX 78620

30 Poor Students Experience Shannon's Raptors With Your Help

30 disadvantaged high school students from the Imbali settlement outside of Pietermaritzburg have the opportunity of a lifetime. As a reward for excellent performance Nikela is sponsoring the Meholokazulu's environmental club on a field trip to experience Shannon's free flying raptors this Saturday (10/30/10).

Join the fun if you like by contributing $9.75 for one child or $292.50 for the whole group. This includes transportation, reduced entry fees and lunch. Oh yes, Shannon let's the two teachers in free. 

Here's the amazing story behind this...

"A short while ago we had a bus donated to us," Boyd says almost in passing. Russ and I look at each other as I feel that tingling that comes when I know things are miraculously lining up. Boyd is a scientist with Ezemvelo, the KZN board over wildlife, biodiversity and tourism. Russ was referred to Boyd by a fella at Church.

A few days earlier at the Bird of Prey Sanctuary we'd been listening to Shannon talk about the need to reach more of the rural, lower income kids with her flight shows. They are the ones caught up in old myths that jeopardize the raptors. For example: Sniffing the powered brains of a vulture makes you clairvoyant and able to predict winning lotto numbers and such! Shannon sees how children's hearts are touched as they witness a Kite catch food in mid air or even more so when the Goshawk seeks out pieces of food strategically placed near their feet. So what is Shannon's first obstacle: Access to the kids in the settlements. Finding those teachers and officials that are interested in environmental/wildlife education.

On Sunday I'm sitting together with a group of women. A few take a minute to share a moment of success. "Passed my exam!" A women behind me states boldly. After a gently nudge from her neighbor a modestly dressed woman says, "My students placed 3rd in Sweden." I really take notice! I need to talk to this woman, she must be a marvelous teacher.

Thoko, a teacher of 17 years has taken her best science students past local, even regional level, on to National competition three times, and this last time two of them went to Sweden and took third place internationally. Yes, I'm impressed. A huge accomplishment for a low income school. Thoko is thrilled about what we're doing and wants to help. We set a time to meet with her at the school.

In a small cubby hole next to the library we chat with Thoko and her colleague Nomti. They tell us about their curriculum restraints which led to the creation of an environmental club to provide more in depth learning for those interested. They'd love to take field trips. Most of these children have never been far outside Imbali (the settlement where they live). Both Thoko and Nomti's eyes twinkle like kids at the thought of experiencing something like Shannon's raptor flight show. They too have not seen much of any wildlife themselves. So what's the biggest obstacle? Transportation. How in the world do they get 30 learners the few kilometers down the N3 to the Sanctuary? If there are school buses there's no budget and parents don't have cars.

Now you can understand why Boyd telling us about the bus was so spine tingling. All we need to do is get these three parties talking and set a date. Oh yes, and to top it all my photographer friend from the Netherlands will be in the country to capture it for us.

Now the stories not over yet?! After getting things all set up the bus falls through! Now what? Well, Thoko, ever the resourceful woman jumps into action to organize two kombis, there's no way she's going to let this opportunity slip through her fingers!

I can just see these kids sitting mesmerised in those bleachers listening to Shannon tell her stories and watching the raptors do their magic. I can see those kids going back to their community armed with truth and knowledge about raptors and how they can make a difference by their actions and words, and with ideas for careers in conservation and tourism giving them hope for the future.

You too can take part in this wonderful aligning of the stars to provide these teachers and students with a once in a life time experience. If you'd like to participate consider sponsoring a student.

For the cost of transportation, the flight show and lunch it comes to $9.75 per person (or $292.50 for the entire club).

Send Checks or Money Orders to:

NIKELA

100 Commons Rd Ste 7-417

Dripping Springs, TX 78620

Seven Minutes of Terror That Lasts Forever

"It's a pleasant day. Two rhino mothers graze peacefully along the edge of the trees. A half grown calf wallows in the mud hole. Her small beady eyes the only part of her leathery body not caked. She's just pulling herself away, bits of mud splattering when the helicopter flies over.

Not the actual baby... a photo I took

There's a commotion and she runs toward her mother. Her mother turns gives a mournful bellow and drops awkwardly. Her wild eyed calf lumbers for the bushes as four men, two with chainsaws attack the downed rhino. After a frightening few minutes all is quiet. The terrified calf moves toward her bleeding, dying mother."

[A story based on what has happened]

Just got word from my photographer friend, Frank who is in South Africa right now, that two more rhino were poached this weekend.  Will, with the Leopard Project who had one of his rhino brutalized a week before our visit, told us that it takes these savages only 7 minutes to "harvest" a rhino horn.  Seven minutes to fly in with a helicopter, dart the animal, lop off the horn with a chain saw, grab it and run while the rhino is left in pain to bleed to death.

According to the media coordinator at KZN Wildlife both these most recent poachings were again, in reserves. This brings the total this year to over 200!  An all time high!  Les with True Ways Anti-poaching says the true number is probably way past 300!  Alarming as there are only around 3,000 rhino left. So we have to hustle.  Here's what you and I can do right now...

Please pass this along... we're in the process of gathering support for Anti-poaching units likes Les'.

Case in point: On the flight home I sat next to an interior designer just back from a week long safari. She had no idea of the extent of the problem. She was horrified and asked what she could do.

Please use your favorite media below to pass the word. 

Final Mussings As We Say "Good-Bye!"

White Lion

It's our last morning. We're in a small quiet coastal village called Scarborough on the Cape Peninsula. The skies are blue, the wind is soft and the ocean a deep turquoise blue. Sea gulls and cormorant dot the rocks and beach. Tiny sea snails, limpets, mussles and other sea life hide in the tidal pools. Marine life is a whole other world that needs our tender care. That is our new friend Tina's love as she rallies her neighbors to take care of their beaches. She lives and works from a lovely cottage overlooking the Indian Ocean just north of Durban.


I'm sitting outside with my muesli, yogurt and fruit, because inside there are smelly clothes, piles of brochures, unfinished shortbread and electronic devices scattered across the cottage in preparation for the final sorting... toss or pack.

The birds are chirping... what an aray of birds there are here. Every where we go there are birds... little jittery ones, brightly colored ones, ground birds with short beaks, long curvy beaks and then of course the birds of prey. From the small Kestrels to the large eagles. This morning as I said, "good-bye" to a small yellow and black bird I've seen both mornings here I promised her that I'd do all I could to assure her survival.

Yesterday we had lunch (overlooking the ocean here in Cape Town) with Toni a true vegan and avid animal rights activist. Her mission is education, focusing on recent studies that clearly indicate (what you and I both knew in our hearts) the link between childhood animal cruelty to adult human violence.

A local dog just came to visit. A large yellow lab. Russ shared the almost empty yogurt container with him which with wagging tail he licked clean before moving on. In Swellendam where we stayed in a tiny clapboard cabin with a parafin lamp a yellow tabby wanted to curl up with us.

Right next to us Eland (largest buck) graze and Guinea Fowl forgage for food. A huge fence separates the village from the National Reserve. One Guinea flew between the top two strands ruffling her feathers a bit, the second made it right over the top, while the third started calling frantically running up and down the fence till she finally found a spot to squeeze under the wire. How many animals are separated or kept from reaching the food or water they need by fences? Many. Fencing off the natural habitat of the elephants has caused havoc in some areas.

While driving through the Western Cape we were pleasantly surprised to see Blue Crane (South Africa's national bird) along the way in the fields and by water holes. My favorite is the Crowned Crane which we saw up close so marvelously at Tony's Birds of Eden.

I'm super excited to go home to sort through the wealth of information, photos and video clips and get the support rolling for the fine people and projects we visited, but... it is so hard to leave. It has been such a gift to be here in my homeland.

Besides slipping through on a quick stop over at the airport, it has been 50 years since I was in Cape Town where I was born and enjoyed the first five years in the shadows of Table Mountain and on the white sandy beaches of the west coast. Yes, it has been quite an emotional ride.

Yesterday we took the cable car to the top of Table Mountain. What a view! Some puffy clouds that floated in an out made it all the more of a high.

Almost a much as staring into the eyes of the injured lioness who half scared me to death as I realized her amazing strength and power. Visiting with Jurg and Karen who devote their lives to saving caged wild cats was a true highlight. These beautiful cats, like the white lion and leopard are such powerful creatures hunted relentlessly for their skins. Canned hunting (the hunting of tame lions) continues to be a real money maker, and sadly enjoyed.

It's time to get packing! Stay tuned as our whole tour will be posted in much greateer detail with photos, videos and stories. Thanks for following.

Is Commercial Conservation South African Wildlife's Hope for the Future?

There on the right appears this huge net. As we get closer it only gets larger and we see the birds. The wire netting rises high over 2.1761 hectares and encloses 375.372 cubic meters and is the world's largest free flight multi-species bird aviary. Housing around 2,000 birds of over 160 different species living in a variety of different habitats. Wow! 

The photo cannot in any way capture the magnitude of this fabulous place!  Birds of Eden

 "Birds of Eden" is such an appropriate name. Lee (the manager) leads us through the special doors and we step into paradise. My camera is immediately pointed at a spectacular Golden Pheasant working hard at impressing "his lady". Before I can take that all in I see a green and red parrot and the prettiest cream colored Dove I'd ever seen.


Golden Pheasant... amazing artwork of the Creator!

 I spend the next hour in absolute awe as Lee guides Russ and I along the walk ways and bridges from one habitat to the next. Small birds, large birds, ground birds and water birds. Some endemic to South Africa and others from all over the world. Each bird is accounted for. Each bird has a story. Many rescued from pet shops or brought in by people who no longer could care for them. It really is a glimpse into what Eden must have been like!

Endemic Lourie... a spectacular bird!

 On most days 1,000 people visit Birds of Eden. Bus loades of school children, photographers, birders from around the world, and curious tourists from South Africa and abroad step into this fascinating world of free-flying birds.

Crowned Crane.  I saw these as a young girl while out horse riding in South Africa

 Immediately next door is Monkeyland. After chatting with Tony the mastermind behind both sanctuaries we move into the world of the primates as we join a walking safari. Have you ever heard a female Lemur call? It sounds like a chorus of a couple of cats, a dog and a monkey! This beautiful creature has a double tongue!



Fascinating Lemur

 Here in Monkeyland land troups of various primate species coexist on 27 hectares of indigenous forest. Walking with monkeys! A troop swings through the wet trees overhead showering down rain drops. We stop to watch a Lemur enjoy apple pieces at a feeding station. All the while we're learning why some tails curl in and other don't have tails at all (those are the apes) from our knowledgeable guide.


Monkeyland and Birds of Eden like the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Center up north are self sustaining conservation projects. Unlike the others we visited who rely on donations and grants for funding these three market themselves well and bring in money via tourism.

In the conservation realm there is great controversy around this. The purests see making money with wildlife as exploitation, while those like the three thriving projects we visited argue they reach far more people and will more readily survive long term.

In my finite wisdom I believe both have their place. The huge drawing card for commercial conservation is the sustainability and the masses of people enjoying a wildlife experience. This creates awareness in a big way.

Conventional conservation is essential to protect not only the wildlife, but the wild places needed for their survival in their natural environment. In an ideal world that means preserving harmonious ecosystems with no human interference.

My hat off to Tony and people like him who use their business savvy to do good for wildlife. And my admiration is unending for those like Karin (more about her soon), Rodger and Natasha (their story coming too) who devote their lives to the wildlife and wild places they love.

A Peek into Where we Sleep

"It's quite rustic," is a phrase we hear frequently. Which means: we built it ourselves, or it hasn't been updated in a while, or it doesn't have much of anything. It's been 25 days of touring and we've slept in eight different Backpackers or B&Bs with at least two more locations to go. 'Backpackers' are called 'hostels' in many other countries and of course 'B&B' stands for 'Bed and Breakfast'.

As a nonprofit we need to keep costs at a minimum (and because we're funding this ourselves and we are not independently wealthy). When we first planned this South African Wildlife Conservation Tour we considered camping. Our daughter in-law spent six months travelling in South America and reminded us about the hostel route.

Russ got online and started plotting out Backpackers... we have yet to stay at one of them! Our first night we deviated and stayed close to the Black Eagle Project so we could return to the beautiful gardens the projects housed in.

There in Krugersdorp we found our selves in a small room gazing up at a two story ceiling and the bathtub was surely the longest I'd ever soaked my body in.

On the road to Pietermaritzburg we called Sleepy Hollow, it was so well situated we stayed for five nights. This was our first real backpackers experience, meeting young people from France and other parts of South Africa all in town for a conference. We spent hours chatting. Avril , the owner and her husband, are international cyclists. Finding Spain the best place to tour on a bike. Actually Clyde was tripping across Australia at that very moment raising money for a local charity.

Then there was the cabin in the midst of the 'jungle' in the Umlalazi Reserve. It was a real treat sitting on the deck with birds and monkeys chattering in the trees above and the small Duiker grazing beneath. Not to mention the walks on the beach just a stones throw away.

Probably the most memorable is the bamboo hut at the backpackers near Hazyview just outside the Kruger Park. If you've ever stayed in a bamboo hut you know that you can't fart on the toilet if you're prim and proper. Waiting on dinner in the main area was not a problem. Francis is a creative decorater, with T-shirts and foreign bank notes from travelers hung and pasted on ceilings and walls. Along one hallway both sides, including the doors, are 'decorated' with thank you notes in a variety of languages.

Of course there was the rondavel near Hoedspruit where a flash of blue flew through the door while we were working (a Kingfisher). With a little careful manuevering we caught this exquiste creature with limited trauma and gently released him back outside.

Only twice so far have we needed to regroup. Once near Umtunzini, where we had quite a time finding the small white entrance gate between the bushes across from the old railway station in the middle of a forest. The tiny huts had no windows, the showers were open air and it just didn't feel safe. The other time the location was fantastic. Just outside of Knysna on a pristine white beach and the ocean almost turquoise in the late afternoon light. A grouping of jagged red rocks creating huge white spray just a few feet away from the backpackers. Talk about waking up and rolling out onto the beach for a morning jaunt! But it didn't feel right, so we made a phone call and found an inland alternative.

From spacious to tiny, from well equipped to minimal, from quiet to busy... what a ride for two 'old folks' like us!

Overall we've kept our costs manageble, though unlike some may think, South Africa ain't cheap even when you rent the tinyest of tiny cars, basically a SMART car with four doors, go the backpacker route and live on yogurt, granola cereal, fabulous fruit, peanutbutter and honey with a meal out every other day. If you feel inclined to help with the costs we'd be very appreciative.

When it's your turn to visit this beautiful country, give me a shout and I'll put you in touch with some fabulous people and some interesting places to stay.

 

South African Wildlife: Who Really Cares? South Africa? Me and You?

South Africa is only 1% of the world's land mass, which is quite insignificant. However, it is home to 10% of the world's mammals, birds and reptiles, now that puts South Africa on the "take notice" list.



My most favorite raptor, the Bateleur

How much does South Africa care about it's wildlife. In talking to locals like Avril who owns and operates Wylde Ride (a cycling tour company) and Sleepy Hollow Backpackers (a hostel) in Pietermaritzburg, KZN in years past wildlife was the main South African tourist attraction. From an economic point of view wildlife was on top of the list as people thronged to the game parks. Today, with the population explosion and never ending poverty the wildlife has slipped way down in priority. Which puts it at risk not only because of less funding, but more critically less protection. Protection not just of the various species themselves but their ever shrinking habitat.

However, take a look at most any advertisement from South Africa. Be it for a car or a vacation you can almost count on seeing one of the Big Five included. Pick up a South African coin or rand note and you'll see one of wildlife's beauties.

Leon, a banker and avid bird watcher, thought that with as little homage that is paid the wildlife (especially the rhino right now) maybe the powers that be need should replace these icons that better reflect current reality, "the one with the most stuff wins".

It's so easy not to care! After all the lions don't organize a strike that impacts the car we drive. Nor do the elephants launch a huge campaign that makes a difference to our pocket book. The rapidly disappearing vultures don't have the slights effect on our garbage pick up. So why care?

It took me many years to start listening to what is happening to the wildlife in South Africa and I was born in South Africa! So I can't point any fingers.

What made me care?

Nature, the marvels of it have always been the greatest source of fascination for me. As I write this sitting on the patio of our cabin in Kwalala Nature Reserve, KZN a large woodpecker size bird I'm unfamiliar with flies into the tree above me, while a small Duiker (buck) with a hoof missing (probably caught in a poacher's snare) forages below, and vervet monkeys call to each other in the jungle like forest to the left.

Sunrise found us on the beach watching sea snails, shore birds and crabs along the magnificent South African coastline. All this in contrast to our drive here yesterday through miles of hills and vales that were totally void of any natural habitiat. Sugar cane and tree farms stretched for miles interuppted by about 30 miles of rural housing dotting the hills and valleys for as far as the eye could see. Trees and vegetation was almost gone leaving little but parched earth and rough brick homes. Livestock was sparse seemingly limited to a few skinny cows and herds of scrappy goats.

Why do I care? Because so much has changed since I was a girl here more than 40 years ago. The natural habitat is shrinking much too fast and with it the wildlife. More than half of the large mammals have disappeared from the African game parks since 1970! Disappeared from the very refuges that are meant to protect them!

2002 thru 2007 found Russ and I in the Philippians. On our flight over there I read a National Geographic article that only 5% of the rain forest in the Philippines remained and that by 2010 it would be gone. The Philippines could be an absolute tropical paradise for both wildlife and humans, but it has been devasted and exploited (or eaten, every thing that moves is either eaten or strung upside down and sold on the road side.)

A friend, Brother Reyes, told us how when he was a boy 40 years earlier their were eagles in the sky and monkeys and buck in the forests. The only Filipino eagles remaining (about 120 in 2004) were in two poorly financed sanctuaries south of Manila and in Mindanau. What a magnificent creature! What a loss not to see it soaring in the skies above the Philippine Islands any longer.

That five year experience seeing the lack of understanding for the part wildlife and it's habitat plays in our lives was a fast-forward of South Africa if we don't care now.

What makes you care? Wildlife's hope for a future is you and me.

My other most favorite bird of prey, the Secretary Bird

Keep 'Em Wild or...

After an inspiring visitors' tour of the Moholoholo rehab center Brian took us behind the scenes. A couple of days earlier they'd been called out to a mass snaring. Must have been awful! An entire lion pride (six), a wildebeest, two hyenas and a vulture had been brutally caught. Only one lioness with huge neck wounds and broken teeth hung to life the rest had died a slow painful death.

We were now heading to the injured lioness' secure rehab unit. Along the way Brian gently pulled back a tarp ever so slightly to let us peek in on a jittery Brown Hyena almost fully recovered and soon to be released. He beackoned us to follow him inside this small dimmly lit corridor. He spoke softly as we approached the second cage. I was stealing myself to see this poor lioness just laying there with her horrific wound.

Roooooaaaaaaar! My heart leapt into my throat as this huge animal with glowing yellow eyes loudly hurled herself towards us. She swung around and crouched in the corner facing us with those menacing eyes. It took every bit of courage I had not to retreat and dash out the door to safety. Here before me was this beautiful creature snatched from the jaws of death. Her recovery still percariously in the balance as the gapping hole in her neck can not be stitched and needs to heal from the inside out. Staving off infection being her rescuers biggest challenge.

We lingered for the longest few minutes in recent history. What a contrast! But an hour or so earlier we'd been led past the ambassedor animal cages. We'd watched two lions languish in their camp. Watched the cheetah lay in the grass and even the leopard didn't seem terribly threatening. We'd even put on a handlers glove and hand fed the vultures. But this lioness... now she was truly fresh from the wilds! Her fear of humans was intense and her defenses were on red alert.

She can never be released to the wilds again. Why I asked? For two reasons: Her fangs are gone so she can no longer fend for herself. Her pride is dead and another would never accept her.

Her options are therefor either death or life in captivity as an ambassedor. Which would you choose? Is there a right or a wrong? This is the difficult dilemna Brian and conservationists like him face every day.

He's not that heavy!  Or ugly for that matter.

From the Field: Helping People Saving Wildlife - There is Much More to Wildlife Conservation Than You May Think

Here I am in the middle of writing this blog entry when Russ walks in. He's just talked to Les in a cabin next to ours. Les is a national anti poaching expert. He's in this part of the country to do training. 294 Rhino have been poached this year in Southern Africa! 100 of those in Mozambique. Apparantly this whole poaching epidemic started with the issue of illegal permits. After an outcry that was stopped, however,the market in Asia was already established and the cruel sawing off of horns continued. When there's the ridiculous sum of $1,000,000 to get for just 8kg of processed horn you can understand why. It seems like a lot of money for little effort tends to bring the savage and crazy side out of humans. How narrow minded is the current adage: If it doesn't pay it doesn't stay!



Boabab Tree near Hoedspruit

Back to my original blog entry...
[Pics at the end... somehow couldn't get them inbetween! Go figure!]


It's been two weeks since we arrived and met with Libby who protects the habitat of her urban Black Eagles west of Johannesburg. Unfortunately as our flight out of Paris was delayed by a passengers medical emergency we missed chatting with Christo (who is a wildlife hero I wrote about before).
We left the big city and the High Veld and dropped down Van Reenen's pass into Kwazulu-Natal. Roz who within only two and a half years has organized a first response wildlife rescue and rehab center is our first stop. Her center has become a hub for country wide rescue and rehab information already. Not that the center tauts to address every wild birds or animals need, but they know the specialts and experts to get involved. Like Ben at the African continents largest and most advanced raptor rescues and rehab facility who we visited next.


Ben and Shannon are not only a create match as husband and wife, they established both the rescue and rehab center, with it's main objective to return these magnificent birds back to the wild, but also a sanctuary to house those that can't be and are used as ambassedors and trained free flying birds for Shannons marvelous educational demonstrations. There's nothing quite like having a Horned Owl soundlessly skim the top of your head in flight. Or watching the Lanner Falcon soaring high only to return to catch the lure in full flight with his talons.

I still can't help but chuckle as I think of our visit to the Jan and James and their Vervet Monkey project. This elderly couple is preparing for the thirteenth year to care for this springs injured or orphaned Vervets. They've not lost one of the 15 plus that arrive at their doorstep every season.

Along the way we meet ordinary people like Leon (banker), Shaun (health care administrator), Avril (outdoor adventure business owner), Thoko (high school teacher), Caroline (newly graduated conservationist), Andries (looking for job in conservation), Terry (Methodist pastor) who share their diverse experiences and understanding of what's really happening with South African wildlife today. The puzzle pieces are different than we had imagined! (You may want to read: Wildlife Conservation: Does One-Size-Fit-All? and The Catch-22 of Protecting South African Wildlife.)

Will and Carol, retired from their former lives, are dedicated to researching the behaviors of the only free roaming preditor that remains in South Africa, the leopard. Their bush home is on a 5,000 hecter ranch. So Russ and I forfitted showers and took off shortly after first light to explore at the waterhole below and by following game paths to the hill above. We were richly rewarded by: Kudo, grey Duiker, Vulture, Impala, Zebra and numerous song birds. Sure beats a morning walk in the suburbs!

Then while eating breakfast on the deck a baboon troop and then a small herd of wildebeest pass by. What a life? However, Will and Carol don't sit around much, the leopard project, safari TV (live online interactive educational program) and so many other protection efforts that would make anyone else's head spin, keep this entrepreneurial couple hopping. Will is not only creating the first free roaming leopard database ever, he also grows the young people he surrounds himself with. Nothing stagnant about what Will does!

Down the dusty road we travelled. Climbing one hill and avoiding one pothole after another in our little car with tiny wheels. Michele and Ian's bush school is really way out there! She wasn't kidding me. Surrounded by nothing but bush and wildlife the kids and volunteers are invited into a once in a life time experience. It was a gift for us to spend half a day with them. Risette, a volunteer from Holland, said it's amazing to see how at the beginning of the week the children arrive very quiet and heads bowed with little interest in the wildlife around them. By the time they leave their hearts are transformed and they cannot only name the wild animals but are excited to see them.

Off one of the main roads near the famous Kruger National Park is Donald's reptile center. Now Russ doesn't like snakes, but after talking to the enthusiastic Donald and getting our own private behind the scenes tour he had a change of heart. Donald's center is full of rescued reptiles that cannot be released. Those that have been dropped off there or he and his staff have rescued from behind peoples cubboards to those about to be killed by an angry farmer.

What a ride! Each day is a new adventure as much of who we meet are those that are put in our path! This amazing tour of meeting such wonderful people beats any vacation I could wish for... except to go relax on the beaches of Hawaii maybe... not!



Volunteers teaching the kids at the Bush School

Russ and Will at their Bush Home

Rescued Albino Python

A Black Headed Heron approaching the nest on a small island in an urban lake. Ermelo SA

Would love to add more pics but out of battery and out of internet time... till next time thanks for following.

Catch 22 in Protecting South African Wildlife

Remember being at the Zoo standing in front of a majestic enclosure in awe of the lion in front of you? With visions of a Discovery Channel Special you were enchanted by this magnificent animal of the wild.

Yes he is serving mankind as an important ambassador not only for his species but the whole animal kingdom. Yet it is a sacrifice he has not chosen to make. Sadness comes as you look deeper at the lethargic King of Beast in front of you. How long has it been since he roamed, hunted, bred… lived?

A rancher has the right to safely raise his livestock; a Leopard has the right to hunt and eat.

An injured bird of prey has the right to follow nature’s course and become food; a researcher has the right to capture the injured bird to understand so he can help.

The millions in poverty have the right to eat; endangered species have the right to survive.

A natural habitat has the right to exist for its interdependent environment of thousands of species; a farmer has the right to clear the land to provide for many of his kind.

Unlike the extremists on both sides, I do not claim to know the answers to the many paradoxes seen in our visit to Africa. But like a very wise 24 year old Leopard researcher said yesterday, “We have to take the situation as it is and do what is right by all”.

Extremism does no one any good. As an example the “bunny huggers” (let live at all costs), the Eco-scientist, and the politicians have created a horrendous situation in Kruger Park by not allowing the conservationists and rangers to do their job.

The Kruger elephant herd cannot be thinned by culling or transporting some to other places where their genetics may not match. And few want to risk looking bad or uncaring to the rest of the world.

As a result the maximum population of 9000 elephants in this magnificent Wildlife Reserve is now over 19000 causing major environmental destruction effecting all other plant and animal species.

Similar to party politics, the bickering and rhetoric continue while the best interests of the species are compromised.

Stay tuned for some interesting solutions to impossible problems by those willing to take a stand, consider all involved, and do their part large or small.

Impossible Made Easy at the Hampton's

What a privilege to be in South Africa and see where we can help. The projects we are evaluating are exactly what we hoped for; wonderful people accomplishing amazing things for wildlife and educating along the way.


It is so hard to choose which one to write about today... Russ picked this one...
 

Impossible Made Easy at the Hamptons


I knew this was going to be an interesting visit. When I called for directions Jan had me smiling in the first few sentences, called me ‘Love’ three times, and said I would have to get directions from her husband because she gets lost finding the same bathroom twice.

After we arrived interesting turned to fun, fun to amazement, and amazement into total awe of who the Hamptons are and what they are accomplishing. What a fascinating marvelously dedicated couple they are with a powerful sense of caring for animals for proper release back into the wild.

James does get in a few words edgewise but mostly it is Jan’s nonstop heartwarming conversation punctuated with pertinent knowledge, caring stories and down to earth reality. No injured beast is turned way but the Hampton’s specialty is saving neonatal Vervet monkeys orphaned by their mother’s death most often caused by humans.

When Jan said they take in 15 to 20 “tinies” each year from all over South Africa I had visions of the shut-in with 45 cats that never leave the house. Nothing but stench, filth and pandemonium…

But then she took us into their spotless intriguing home and nursery where the delicate process was revealed. Over 250 “tinies” have been rescued and reared over the past 12 years and they could hardly contain themselves for this year’s “crop” of 15 to 20, “It is the start of the season and we should be getting the first calls very soon.”

When the “tines” are 7 months old they are weaned and independent. Now ready to forget “mom and dad” they are put in a large enclosure and carefully mixed with older vervets to form a troop that is capable of surviving as a colony in the wild. The forgetting and adapting takes over 2 years and the Hamptons have one troop preparing to be released this year with another progressing well for the following year.

Presently they are in need of another troop enclosure as there will be an overlap in the troops this year. This wonderful couple has all the proper permits and accomplishes this major effort mostly on their retirement pensions and some help from the locals.

The funds to meet the urgent need for the enclosure are out of reach and they need help before this year’s “tinies” are weaned. James just wants help with the material as he intends to build the enclosure himself with some friends.

A closer glimpse into the Hampton's...

 
Sorry this one is turned side ways... have no idea why it did that!!!!
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Wildlife Conservation... Does One Size Fit All?

Russ talks with Leon a local wildlife advocate

YBK the bird that wouldn't leave (Whole story coming soon)

After touring just four wildlife protection sites we've had our eyes opened and our hearts touched. You can't help but admire Libby who knows and loves her black eagles. All you can do is stand back in wonder when you see all that Roz has got in place in just two years. A chuckle and a smile can't be stopped as exuberant Jan tells her stories about saving abandoned baby vervet monkeys. And you'd think they had a team of 20 when you learn all Ben and Shannon do to save the raptors.

Working toward release. Buck babies whose mothers were hit by a car.

But, does one way of wildlife conservation fit all?

Protecting, saving, preserving, conserving, rescuing, rehabilitating may all be what each is doing, however, where the divergence occurs is in how it's done and their basic philosophies about wildlife conservation.

Margrit and Libby with the Black Eagle Project

What a delightful woman! Jan and one of 'her' monkeys

Some conservation programs involve volunteers and others to feed, handle and nurture the injured young buck or bird back to full health, making it a community affair, sensitizing both young and old to wildlife and it's importance in their area. Others keep their wild animals and birds far from the public, providing very private rehab pens to keep them wild and afraid of humans. Then of course there are those who walk a tough line somewhere between the two.



Is there a right or a wrong? There are strong opinions at both extremes.

What do you think? We have many more to talk to so let's see what else we find out shall we?

Ben shows Margrit how this kites wing is pinned to help it heal properly